Easter Chronicles|Fish Tales: Day 7&8

Day 7: April 15, 2006

We trolled back to Pilar from Pansukian amidst these deliriously gigantic waves. I took these photos while sitting on edge as these waves came up to the side.  Siargao Island's Pacific-facing reefs are situated on the edge of the Philippine Trench or Philippine Deep which makes it popular for ocean fishing and surfing.

 

The world's second deepest spot underwater is in the Philippines. 
This is about 34,440 feet (10,497 meters) below the sea level.

Along the way, the FBF caught a wahoo which provided a welcome distraction amidst scary thoughts of the deep. 

We circled the rocks slowly hoping to catch more fish before heading back to Pilar, the fishing village but didn't catch any more.

 

 

Lunch was at the home (which is also a no frills bed and breakfast) of Junior  Gonzales, the local living fishing legend.  His better half, Jean, is famous for her seafood fare and banana bread. This crustacean bounty was served for lunch with a vinegar, soy sauce, lemon, and garlic dip.

It was a lazy afternoon so we spent some time with the children in the neighborhood. The bicycle bell of the ice cream man came a calling and we treated the kids to a round of sorbetes. 

Day 8: April 16, 2006

Bong and Hyde, our hosts, saw us off as we left Pilar with light hearts and easy smiles.

 We saw many gorgeous vistas along the way.

 A rainbow archway welcomed us as we approached Leyte. Oh, It was magical.

Leyte is most famous for its role in the reconquest of the Philippines during World War II. General Douglas MacArthur waded ashore on Leyte, saying "I have returned", on October 20, 1944. However, the Japanese did not give up so easily. The four-day Battle of Leyte Gulf was the largest naval battle in history.

MacArthur Landing statues

We stopped by the fabled isle of Limasawa and feasted on the steamed crab Jean sent with us for lunch. Limasawa is where they say, the first mass in the Philippines was celebrated on March 31, 1521, an Easter Sunday. The Magellan's Cross shrine is located on the highest point of the island.

 

Magellan contented himself with having them do reverence to the cross which is erected upon a hillock as a sign to future generations of their alliance.The solemnity with which the cross was erected and the deep piety shown by the Spaniards, and by the natives following the example of the Spaniards, engendered great respect for the cross. “Not finding in Butuan the facilities required by the ships, they returned to Limasawa to seek further advice in planning their future route. The Prince of Limasawa told them of the three most powerful nations among the Pintados [Visayans], namely those of Caraga, Samar, and Zebu. The nearness of Zebu, the facilities of its port, and the more developed social structure (being more monarchial) aroused everyone’s desire to go thither. Thus, guided by the chief of Limasawa, passing between Bohol and Leyte and close to the Camotes Islands, they entered the harbor of Cebu by the Mandawe entrance on the 7th of April 1521, having departed from Limasawa on the first day of that month.” Translation of Spanish text by Fr. Miguel A. Bernad

After earning my golden jojoba crisp sea legs on this trip, I now look at my thunder thighs with more love and respect. Those extra kilojoules stored in my cellulite do have a purpose, after all. I may have added years to my weather beaten forehead but it was worth it. The best things in life are truly free. As cliche as that sounds...

I asked myself again the question that a few people asked me. Was this true love or delirium? There was true love but neither love nor delirium made me want to go on this trip. It was the willingness to live a full life without missing a beat.

I learned from this particular trip that it was important to feel each sensation to the marrow, smell the tendrils of existence, grasp every morsel in my small hands, and taste the underbelly of raw textures.

Such earthiness propels me to max it out as it keeps me grounded. The intricacies of the jaded world I'm treading on has never been experienced with more clarity and appreciation. At the end of the day, a full life is the only way to prepare for a good death. 

We made it to Cebu just before sunset where the soft rays collided with the jagged shadows of the hills. A friend once said that there's something deeply spiritual about watching the sun rise and set because it's the comfort of the inevitable. I concur and joyously bask in its shades of light and darkness, adding more hues to my already colorful canvas.

Easter Chronicles|Fish Tales: Day 5&6

Day 5: April 13, 2006

Not used to waiting, my patience was being tested. Still no catch, I was getting restless. Instead of daydreaming about big catches, the endless blue made me mentally wander off to the nether regions. As much as one respects the sea, sometimes, it can't help but play tricks on your head. Well, I brought the perfect book for that day. Alain de Botton's Consolations of Philosophy. I picked the book up years before while at Heathrow on a quick stopover after a tearful adieu in Milan with someone who was never meant to be.

Here's an excerpt of the Amazon review---"consolation for a broken heart in Schopenhauer, consolation for inadequacy in Montaigne. Epicurus, usually associated with a love of luxury, is a solace for those of us without much money--and de Botton learns from him that "objects mimic in a material dimension what we require in a psychological one." Enough said.

We ventured further to the ocean this time near the payao (a local term for FAD -Fish Attracting Device). It is a blue water artificial reef composed of an anchor, line and coconut leaves just below the water surface. Looks like it's the place to be as we saw a group of boats here.

 Whew, finally got the skunk out of the boat with the first fish caught!

The sea must have felt our anguish because we caught 15 skipjack tuna that morning! My arms ached from reeling them in but oh, it was such a good ache and the adrenaline rush was addictive.

On the way back to Pilar, we felt a tug and realized that something bit into our bait. Guess the salfish and I took each other by surprise. It was not a long fight but it was good. It took the last ounce of my strength but well worth it. Good things come unexpectedly and to those who wait with bait.

 We asked him to sashimi our catch

30 kilo sailfish

 

payao or FAD (Fish Attracting Device)

Sated and still fresh from the morning high, we went back out to the payao or FAD that afternoon and caught eight more. Similar to the morning scene, it was like the designated social spot in the middle of the ocean with everyone gathered about.

 The colors of the sky as it progressed into the evening were beyond gorgeous.

Capped our day with a marvelous sunset and the rising full moon. The sea was calm and our journey back to Pilar was illuminated by the moon. I laid down, looked up the magnificent sky to thank God who I really felt was in the details at that particular moment.

Day 6: April 14, 2006

Siargao is also the surfing destination in the Philippines and we passed by Cloud 9 which has a worldwide reputation for thick hollow tubes. This right-breaking reef wave discovered by traveling surfers in the late 80s was named and made famous by American photographer, John S. Callahan. He published the first major feature on Siargao Island in Surfer magazine in March 1993. Callahan has put the island on the international map and has drawn thousands of surfers and tourists to Siargao.It now hosts the the annual Siargao Cup, a domestic and international surfing competition. 

The sea was glassy as we headed for Pansukian, the exclusive resort in the area, owned by Nicolas Rambeau. Nicolas is a bon vivant of many interests. Aside from having a museum grade shell collection, he also taught me how to cook foie gras when we  cooked for the former Philippine president, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo in another island in the Pacific. But that's another story for the books.....  

Pansukian was purchased by the outdoor furniture company Dedon and is now called, what else, but Dedon Island. They are currently working with Jean-Marie Massaud, to make it a Dedon playground. The small resort's homey yet exclusively luxe vibe is what attracted many disciminating guests worldwide then. I wonder what it will be like after the makeover.

If you want a quiet and pristine getaway,this is the place to connect with yourself and nature. It was the perfect setting for Good Friday. I read the scriptures as the birds chirped. At dusk, we lounged on a Dedon daybed by the shore with a fine bottle of bubbly as we waited for the moonrise. Lovely smiles and warm whispers....